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Many opportunites exist for rock climbing and
abeiling on the cliffs around Exmoor.
The Exmoor coastline stretches for about thirty miles in and out of
the inlets from Minehead to Combe Martin, representing
the northern boundary of Exmoor. For
much of the way the cliffs are vegetated with long stretches of boulder
beach where attention to foot placement can distract the explorer from
the spectacular view of the hogback cliffs which rise to a thousand feet
or more above the beach.
Here and there a buttress of sandstone, slate or
shale has resisted erosion to become a secure bluff sometimes
as high as two hundred and fifty feet. These provide excellent sport
for the climber as well as viewing platforms for bird watching and
photography.
Rock suitable for climbing can also be found on the
walls of narrow inlets known locally as ‘Guts’. These
walls tend to be very steep. Occasionally the opportunity to climb
or view the landscape is provided by a detached stack or pinnacle situated
on the foreshore. Huge caves and waterfalls abound.
Baggy Point is a very popular climbing destination for climbers of all abilities and separate guidebooks are available locally. Variable restrictions are applied in spring each year to enable nesting birds the chance to rear their young. This is usually between March and June and the area covered is marked by and in between white posts. Before planning to climb please contact the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) Access Officer on 0161 445 4747, website: http://www.thebmc.co.uk or the National Trust warden on 01271 870555.
Climbing on The Exmoor Coast has as much history attached to it as any other climbing area in the British Isles, but it remains a largely unknown area because of access problems due to the tidal range and high cliffs. Strangers to the area find that whole days are wasted trying to locate the routes down the convex hog back cliffs and many turn up on unsuitable tides. Some admit that getting down to the beach and back is enough for one day.
Underneath The Hangmans mining had taken place since the 1700’s. Judging from the location of many of the adits and remaining paths the miners and prospectors would certainly have climbed on the cliffs.
One of the earliest climbs recorded on a British sea cliff was Scrattling Crack at Baggy Point by Tom Longstaff during 1898. Baggy Point is but a few miles west of The Exmoor Coast. But before in 1869 James Hannington was climbing on the cliffs below Martinhoe.
James Hannington. 1847-1885
During 1870 Hannington became curate at Martinhoe church and with the help of parishioners constructed paths down to the beach 800ft below the hamlet. He was actively engaged in rock climbing and taking visitors down to view the large cave which was eventually named after him.
James Hannington
He writes of a near drowning incident when he became stuck between two levels of a cave which he named ‘The Eyes’ and had to wait for the tide to rise and pop him out as if he were a cork into the above level. Anyone who climbs into this cave will appreciate that Hannington was able to climb at a standard equal to severe grade. It was however the remainder of his short life and martyrs death that made him famous throughout the world. A couple of his paths are marked on old OS maps. More.
The Victorians were attracted to The Exmoor Coast by its stunning scenery with large coastal waterfalls and huge cliffs plunging directly into the sea. Lynmouth became known as Little Switzerland. Their paths to the various viewpoints can still be found in the undergrowth.
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