Dulverton

The Domesday Survey of 1086AD carries a brief entry regarding Dulverton, stating simply that it formerly belonged to Earl Harold (King Harold defeated at the Battle of Hastings) and "is now King's Land". There are very few inhabitants and there is no mention of any church.

The name is thought to be derived from Celtic in which dol means a bend in a stream or river, whilst the Saxon ver means ford, so it is a ford (in the River Barle) near a bend in the river.

Dulverton, is a true Exmoor gem, it was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and can trace its history back to Saxon times. It is a lively town of winding, medieval streets crammed with attractive buildings and interesting shops, galleries and inviting little cafe's and inns, all of which you may have noted in the recent film 'Land Girls' for which Dulverton was the setting. Amongst the towns' many attractions it has an excellent Heritage and Arts Centre. Dulverton, with its long tradition of welcoming visitors throughout the ages, makes an ideal and interesting base from which to explore the magic and mystery of Exmoor.

All Saints Church Dulverton

The first mention of a Priest in Dulverton is mentioned in 1332, one Thomas Fleure of S. Pederton (South Petherton). Suffice to say, it was probably under the aegis of the Augustinian Canons who had a Priory at Barlynch, between Dulverton and Minehead, until its dissolution in 1536.

Still unspoiled English country town with medieval bridge

Exmoor's southern gateway lies in the beautiful valley of the River Barle. There is a good choice of shops, inns and eating places in the narrow streets. The church has stained glass windows provided by Sir George Williams, founder of the YMCA who was born in nearby Ashway.

Exmoor House is the office of the National Park Authority. The Guildhall Heritage Centre is well worth a visit and stages exhibitions by local artists. The National Park Visitor Centre and Library are based in the former ironmonger's shop in the main square opposite the town hall. Live theatre, craft markets and many special events make Dulverton a popular centre with visitors.

This has a medieval bridge, old-fashioned country shops, and population of only 1,300 people, it still has a quiet rural charm.

Notable people connetced with Dulverton include:

• John Nelder, statistician
• Auberon Waugh, writer and journalist, was born in 1939 at Pixton Park, Dulverton.
  
• George Williams founder of the YMCA was born in Dulverton in 1821.
• The Wills family hold the title of Lord Dulverton

Pixton Park

Dulverton Tucked between a curve of the road and the River Barle, close to Marsh Bridge, are this little packhorse bridge and ford across a side stream, preserved as part of a riverside area where the public can pause and picnic. Four-wheeled vehicles are prevented from driving through by a boulder on each ramp, but there's nothing to stop bikers.

Dulverton population (in 1901) 1369 is a market town on the River Barle, 21 miles west of Taunton . The railway station on the G.W.R. branch line to Barnstaple was 2 miles away at Brushford. It is, however, deservedly beloved of the angler and the huntsman. It possesses one of the best trout streams in the west of England, and its proximity to Exmoor, the haunt of the red deer, makes it an excellent centre for the chase. But the rod and the hounds are merely adventitious attractions to Dulverton.

Its real merit lies in its scenery. It not only enjoys undisputed possession of the lovely valley of the River Barle in which it lies, but a short connecting road enables it to appropriate the beauties of the neighbouring vale of the River Exe. Both torrents descend from the highlands of Exmoor, and it is difficult to say which is the more beautiful. The valleys are similar, but have characteristic differences. The River Barle has all the piquant charm of the mountain torrent, whilst the beauties of the River Exe are of a sedate though not less pleasing character. Everywhere about Dulverton delightful landscapes may be caught, but the "show sight" is Mount Sydenham, just above the church.

Dulverton will find less favour with the antiquarian than with the artist. Such antiquities as it does possess are more picturesque than important. The church has been entirely rebuilt (1855) with the exception of the tower, which is of the plain Exmoor type. The other antiquities in the neighbourhood are:

• Mouncey Castle (a corruption of Monceaux), a rough encampment on the summit of a wooded hill almost encircled by the River Barle, a couple of miles above Dulverton
• the ivy-covered ruins of Barlynch Priory, a branch "cell" from Cleve Abbey, standing in a charming situation on the banks of the River Exe, a mile above Hele Bridge
• Tarr Steps, a rude but highly picturesque footbridge over the River Barle, 5 miles above Dulverton. It crosses the river at a ford, and is constructed of large flag-stones, uncemented, and resting on similar stones placed edgewise. It is generally regarded as Celtic in origin, and is certainly a great artistic addition to a charming bit of river. A most delightful walk is to take the Winsford road through Higher Combe, cross the Barle at Tarr Steps, and return by the opposite bank through Hawkridge. It is a round trip of about 12 miles but well repays the effort involved. Another pleasant excursion is to explore the valley of the Haddeo, a stream which flows into the River Exe from the opposite direction to the River Barle, and which fully maintains the reputation of the neighbourhood for river scenery. Near Dulverton station is an interesting trout nursery. Pixton Park (in which there was a heronry) was the seat of the Countess of Carnarvon.

All Saints Church Dulverton

The town is a thriving community, offering the visitor a wide range of shops and accommodation and one of the most beautiful caravan parks in all England, set on the banks of the River Barle. Venture a little from the two short main
streets, and you will find tranquil corners,a meandering leat, the oldest mediaeval bridge of Exmoor or a carpet of bluebells in Spring in Burridge Woods The town is home to the offices of the Exmoor National Park Authority and the National Park Centre in Fore Street offers an excellent information service.

Sporting activities include fishing, hunting, tennis and excellent squash courts which visitors are now invited to use.

Dulverton is a busy little town (population 1,347) acting as a service centre for southern Exmoor. It lies in an attractive setting where the deep and wooded Barle valley broadens into meadows before joining the Exe. A medieval bridge spans the river near the former workhouse, now the National Park Authority's offices. There is a National Park Centre adjoining the Heritage Centre, which has an art gallery and displays about Dulverton and the surrounding woodlands. There are many shops and services, including bank, chemist, library and health centre.

View over the Allotments to Dulverton Church

Dulverton, on the River Barle, is the southern gateway to Exmoor, a small hospitable town and the home of the Exmoor National Park Authority.
It offers an ideal place to rest and relax after a drive or walk across the moor, and is well known as the centre of the best fishing and shooting area of Exmoor. The River Barle is particularly noted for its trout and salmon.

The Sydenham family have, over the centuries, added much to the history and colour of West Somerset, and the Church of All Saints in Dulverton contains five memorials to the family in the north aisle. The church underwent major restoration work in Victorian times, but the church's tower survives from the 12th century.

In the spring take a trip to Burridge Woods to see the carpet of bluebells

Dulverton Church

The architect who was commissioned to 'restore' the church in the mid-1800s - a church which, according to him was falling into grave disrepair- estimated that the old building was dated about 1500AD "with the Tower perhaps later". He also stated that the galleries then in the church "took the light and made bad air". Apparently at that time there was a screen which he considered "a singular and good example of 15th century art". The galleries over this screen were entered from the outside. He suggested that the screen could be reinstated for £120, expensive in those days. Sadly it was not - one wonders in whose house or barn it finally came to rest It may well have been of similar workmanship to the screen in Dunster Church.

He also reported mat the pews, mostly of box type, "oblige many persons to sit with their faces in unpleasant if not improper proximity to those occupying the opposite seats" Eventually the "restoration" became a rebuild.

Some of the money for the 'restoration' project was collected locally, some by means of a loan from the Public Works Board (who as late as 1871 wrote to insist that the remaining debt "be fully paid forthwith"). A grant was also obtained from the Incorporated Society for Promoting the enlargement, building and repairing of churches and chapels. The new church was finally consecrated in 1855 and had cost over £3,200. Some of the alterations which have since been made are referred to at various points in this leaflet but major works were the restating of one third of the roof and timber repairs in 1994, with the remaining two sections of the roof completed in 2002. Permanent floodlighting was installed in 2002, a great asset to the church.

Dulverton: Attractive, busy, tiny town on the beautiful River Barle. Good shops, pubs, restaurant, galleries, mostly round a square, church at its head. HQ of Exmoor National Park. Beautiful drive up through ancient oak woods to heather moorland, 3 miles; riverside walks;Tarr Steps (famous ancient/restored Clapper Bridge), about 5 miles; sea/sandy beach at Minehead, about 15 miles.

Dulverton shopping

The first ship to bear the name HMS Dulverton was launched in 1941. She was protecting the islands of Leros and Kos when, in November 1943, she was struck by German aircraft with "glider bombs". One of these struck HMS Dulverton on the bridge inflicting fatal damage. 3 officers and 75 ratings were lost but 120 men were taken safely aboard her consorts. The insignia of old HMS Dulverton are in the Memorial Chapel of All Saints Church Dulverton.

A new HMS Dulverton was commissioned in 1983 and took part in the Gulf War in 1992. She is a Hunt Class mine counter-measures vessel and was finally in service as a Northern Ireland patrol ship. Regrettably, she was decommission-ed in 2005.

HMS Dulverton

Dulverton Shopping

Dulverton - picture taken in 1966 - photo supplied by Sheila Bishop">Dulverton - picture taken in 1966 - photo supplied by Sheila Bishop

Dulverton has been described as, the southern gate to Exmoor. It stands between the River Barle and River Exe. It is a small attractive town based on a typically medieval plan, with a triangular market place featuring an unusual Town Hall converted from an 18th century Market House.

The Dulverton Workhouse, built in 1855, now houses the administrative authority of the Exmoor National Park. Dulverton was once on the main road from Exeter to London, but this has long since gone. All Saints Church was rebuilt in 1854 around a much smaller earlier church, and as a result the tower, which is original, looks small by comparison.

Dulverton Laundry

Dulverton Congregational Church

Pixton House Dulverton

View toward Dulverton from Brushford

View of the River Exe between Brushford and Dulverton

At the end of the South and North Aisles in Dulverton's All Saints Church there are windows given by George Williams, who once lived locally and was the founder of the Y.M.C.A. Apparently the glass and iron from the old windows was sold to the then curate for the princely sum of £1.5s. The windows were screened in 1916 - the gift of Gilbert Wills, one of the W.H.Wills tobacco family, who took the title Lord Dulverton.

The Memorial Chapel Windows in All Saints Dulverton have a link with Tutankhamen. One of the windows in the memorial chapel is in memory of the 3rd Earl of Carnarvon, an ancestor of the Earl of Carnarvon discoverer of the Tomb of Tutankhamen. Another window is in memory of George Hall Peppin, member of a long established Dulverton family, one of whose ancestors may well have been George Pepen who was a churchwarden in 1709. George Hall Peppin who died in Australia is credited with having introduced the Merino sheep to Australia though this is disputed by some authorities.

Dulverton 1940 - photo presented with the kind permisssion of www.grumpystumpy.com

Dulverton 1940 - photo presented with the kind permisssion of www.grumpystumpy.com

The Church Clock is nearly three hundred years old: a plaque on the clock frame is dated 28 June 1708. Sadly, church accounts before 1739 are lost, so we do not know whether it was donated and, if so, by whom. We do know that the same clock maker, Lewis Pridham (who lived and worked at Sandford. a few miles north of Crediton), also made the clock for St Michael's Church in Minehead in 1725 for £38 and for our neighbouring town of Bampton in -1728 for £22.6s, both since replaced. The All Saints clock is a four post (birdcage) with wrought iron frames which exhibit excellent blacksmith's work, and the corner posts terminate in attractively wrought finials. It has a thirty-hour rather than an eight-day movement which means that that it has to be wound daily. Our team of clock winders have to be healthy to climb and descend the 34 steps to the clock daily!

OS Grid Reference: SS9127

See also:

www.dulvertonbystarlight.co.uk

www.dulverton.com

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